Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and tourists equally praising its remarkable cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
In a recent announcement, Unesco honored it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – including it in a prestigious group of world cities and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this status, it enters a global network of cities cities across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".
The recognition "stands as proof of its profound gastronomic legacy and vibrant food ecosystem," as stated by a spokesperson from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to find a place in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this historic city arrives as no surprise to its residents or passionate food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, lively, and diverse city – the capital of India's largest state – is at last in the global gaze for what has perennially characterized its soul: an immense passion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how should it be prepared' is a ongoing discussion from morning until going to bed in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually assessed by the excellence of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its succulent kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were created, evolved, and raised to extraordinary levels in their imperial kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of culinary innovations, blending Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were fashioned. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was devised to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates local ingredients but also gives the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Almost on countless corners, there are small establishments and kiosks – hidden treasures that are wildly loved by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, throngs of people start gathering from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in clay glasses, along with incredibly soft buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can make their way to a unpretentious joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also boasts remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and demanding. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but express concern that their children are unwilling to learn the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's profound food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – influenced by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will inspire more people worldwide to discover these narratives and visit the city to taste the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
